Yves Saint Laurent, Piet Mondrian, and Pop Art
192 pp., 10 x 12 in, 91 color illus., 41 b&w illus.
- Published: October 24, 2023
- Publisher: The MIT Press
An extraordinary look at how the style of Piet Mondrian's abstract paintings was posthumously appropriated by 1960s fashion, Pop art, and consumer culture.
Yves Saint Laurent's 1965 Mondrian dresses are among the twentieth century's most celebrated and recognizable fashions, but the context of their creation involves much more than meets the eye. In Mondrian's Dress, Nancy J. Troy and Ann Marguerite Tartsinis offer a fresh approach to the coupling of Piet Mondrian's interwar paintings with Saint Laurent's couture designs by exposing the rampant merchandising and commodification that these works experienced in the 1960s. The authors situate the consolidation of Saint Laurent's fashion brand alongside the work of such Pop artists as Roy Lichtenstein, Andy Warhol, and Tom Wesselmann, and show how conventional understandings of Mondrian's avant-garde abstractions were transformed by the mass circulation of his signature style.
Beyond its attention to 1960s fashion, Pop art, and consumer culture, Mondrian's Dress offers critical assessments of Saint Laurent's so-called dialogue with art, the remarkable art collection that he built with his partner Pierre Berge, and the crucial role that photography plays in the marketing of couture. The first book-length study of its kind, Mondrian's Dress is a provocative reevaluation of how art, commerce, and fashion became fundamentally intertwined in the postwar period.
"When Piet Mondrian started making his geometric abstractions in primary colors, he was going for something accessible: breaking down images into their purest and simplest forms. But they didn't refer to reality in recognizable ways, and, to some, their harsh lines came off as cold and uninviting. After his death, however, in a posthumous collaboration with fashion designer Yves Saint Laurent in 1965, Mondrian's work was finally able to reach the mass audience he always wanted. This glamorous yet scholarly book from MIT Press tells the story in the context of that era's Pop art."
Art in America