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Where do waves come from? How do they form? What happens as they approach the shore? How do they break? Why do they break?

Why learn about waves?

Anyone who has spent a day at a beach or on a boat probably has wondered at the power and mechanics of the ocean.

About

Founded in 2005, the MIT Press Blog features news about MIT Press authors, books, journals, and other initiatives. Views expressed by guest contributors do not necessarily represent those of the MIT Press.